St-Hubert Bar-B-Q

"No longer anonymous, St-Hubert Bar-B-Q has become an institution. The mockers are confounded. Could they have guessed it? René has marketing in his blood. “It was advertising that made me known, that put me on the map,” he says, “it’s advertising that will continue to bring me success.” The Légers observe, analyze, innovate. Are they not the pioneers of free delivery in Canada? And then, they sell more than just chicken. They are also spreading a certain idea of Quebec: warmth, friendliness, simplicity. Others will imitate them later on. Meanwhile, the rotisserie owners take a nearly insurmountable lead over the competition. “From that moment on,” René Léger would say later, “the business more or less pushed me from behind, and I would really have had to make an effort not to succeed.”"

"Hélène can be proud of how far she has come. St-Hubert Bar-B-Q has made its mark not only with the public but also among restaurant professionals. Driven by René, the rotisserie kitchen is constantly improving. This is also the result of teamwork. Indeed, René does not hesitate to consider suggestions from his employees… and to implement them when they prove effective. Thus, one day, one of his assistant cooks, Mr. Marcotte, draws his attention to something seemingly trivial. He is tired of buttering his rolls one by one with a brush. The task is tedious and takes too much time. While he is busy with this, he cannot do anything else. As a result, during the rush, he doesn’t know where to turn. To solve the problem, he proposes a curious solution. “What if we cut in half the small table where I butter my bread?” he asks his boss. “In the center, I would install a wringer roller and roll it over the butter. I would then just have to slide the rolls across it.” A week later, Mr. Marcotte’s table is installed. The invention makes everyone happy. Besides making the work easier and speeding up service, this device also allows the bread to be buttered more evenly. Such creativity benefits the customers, the restaurateur couple’s number one priority."

"Unexplained incidents come back to her memory: several times, people told the Léger family that they had gone to their rotisserie without even seeing them. Intrigued, the couple couldn’t make sense of the story. Yet, they had been at the rotisserie on those evenings! Hélène finally understands the origin of the confusion: customers are confusing the two restaurants. Subsequently, the Léger family will notice that the other taxi drivers are making the same mistake. St-Hubert Bar-B-Q has only a modest neon sign in the window, nothing to distinguish it from its neighbor. That’s the rub: the Léger’s rotisserie lacks notoriety. Devoid of its own image, without real personality, it blends in with the mass of other restaurants."

"Getting ahead of the wave. René remembers the lessons from previous months. If he does not meet the demands of his customers, the competition will be happy to do so. All the human resources of St-Hubert Bar-B-Q—in other words, the entire Léger family!—were thus put to use. René hires his brother as a deliveryman and his father takes over order dispatch. During the week, Hélène or René handle the deliveries. Soon enough, though, the family workforce is not enough for the job. Demand continues to grow. Clearly, there is an opportunity here that deserves to be exploited on a larger scale. The idea is beginning to take shape in René’s mind. Of course, this requires an entire organization… and a significant investment—yet another one! Still, the business remains risky."

"Third step: give the only true rotisserie on Saint-Hubert Street the notoriety it deserves. Confident, René convinces Hélène to risk it all, that is, all the money the household has left, by organizing a big advertising campaign. Something never seen before for a restaurant. All his life, the co-founder of St-Hubert Bar-B-Q would maintain his belief in large-scale advertising. For him, it is one of the pillars of business success. Commonplace today, the strategy was bold and decidedly ahead of its time, especially for such modest merchants! But owning a tiny rotisserie doesn’t prevent the owners from thinking big."

"Starting in April, advertisements praising the merits of St-Hubert Bar-B-Q flood the airwaves during prime time. The Léger family simultaneously uses the services of three radio stations. This is a first in Quebec for restaurant owners. The name St-Hubert Bar-B-Q enters every Montreal household. The impact is immediate: one week after the start of the campaign, the company is no longer losing a single cent. Two weeks later, sales have jumped. Finally, the Léger family has the wind in their sails. After months of struggle, the ship is sailing smoothly. With sales of nearly $2,000 a week, the company’s break-even point is quickly surpassed. The Léger family too…"

"René remains unshakable. Out of sheer exhaustion, they eventually discreetly advise him of two or three agencies. Not long after, a new “star” appears on the small screen: the St-Hubert rooster! Faced with René’s persistence, the broadcaster finally gave in, thus creating a precedent. And what a precedent! His client’s advertising campaign literally bursts onto the screen. “My God! Twelve at the table!” exclaims Juliette Béliveau, who quickly calls St-Hubert Bar-B-Q for help. This good Quebec mother who worries about feeding her brood well instantly becomes a legend. The image hits home. And for good reason. The Légers target the mother of the family, the one who holds the purse strings… and would love to untie those of her apron from time to time. St-Hubert chicken asserts itself not only as the ally of the overwhelmed housewife, but also as the symbol of conviviality, a very strong value in French-Canadian society."

"Like its competitors, St-Hubert Bar-B-Q provides delivery, but at the customer’s expense. In addition to the order, the customer must pay $2 or $3 for a taxi. However, at the time, this kind of extra charge is not within everyone’s budget. At this rate, the clientele risks plateauing quickly. René then has a flash of genius: why not deliver the chicken for free? Free delivery, the rotisserie owner believes, would encourage more people to place orders. In return, a sufficient flow of deliveries would allow the transportation costs to be spread among a larger number of people, in short, leading to substantial economies of scale. Even better, beyond a certain threshold, it is possible to make a profit. To make this service profitable, René calculates, they would need to deliver at least $1,000 in meals per week. The concept is revolutionary. Perhaps too much so. Hélène hesitates. If no one has ventured down this path yet, it’s probably because it leads nowhere. And what will they do if the orders are insufficient? Their business is only just starting to recover. Is it really the right time to get involved in another experimental project? In the end, the young woman agrees to “give it a shot.” You might as well strike while the iron is hot."

"Soon, another advertisement will capture the popular imagination. Created by Jean Lesiège, owner of the Lesiège advertising agency, the jingle will become famous: “Dring! Dring! Dring! What do you want? Put! Put! Put! St-Hubert Bar-B-Q… In less than an hour that’s not much, our deliveryman will be at your house. Ring, ring, ring… A chicken at your door, put, put, put, St-Hubert Bar-B-Q!” It is so successful that people greet the drivers by humming it. Some even ask them to sing it! The Léger family has pulled off quite a feat: they created a bond with their customers in just a few months. In short, they find themselves in the big leagues. And that’s not just a turn of phrase."

"Spring 1957. A restaurant adjoining the St-Hubert Bar-B-Q closes. What’s more, the building that housed it is put up for sale. For the Léger family, it’s now or never to expand their dining room. However, they don’t have the means to acquire the building. At least for now. Once again, Mr. Ménard comes to their rescue. Hélène and René convince their landlord to buy the building on their behalf. In exchange, the rotisserie owners will rent the premises from him for 10 years with a purchase option of $90,000. The agreement is signed in May. Once again, sleeves are rolled up at 6355 Saint-Hubert Street. Mr. Ménard’s building is turned upside down: a basement is dug, the framework is redone. The shared wall is knocked down to expand the rotisserie dining room. Ninety thousand dollars! The commitment is colossal; it requires constantly rising revenues. But the Léger family believes in their star more than ever. The events that follow will soon prove them right."

"Meanwhile, the work is coming to an end. In the fall of 1957, the grand dining room is inaugurated. Jean-Claude Proulx is hired on the evening of the opening, a Friday, to lend a hand as a busboy. For the young man arriving straight from his native Abitibi, it is an opportunity to discover the wildlife of Montreal’s wild nights. At the time, in fact, the restaurant closed at five in the morning. Television had not yet fully entered people’s habits. Montrealers from all walks of life enjoyed going out late at night. It was the golden age of clubs like the Mocambo or the Casa Loma, where great American, French, and French-Canadian stars performed one after another. Cinema was also experiencing its golden age. From 11 o’clock at night, night owls flocked to St-Hubert Bar-B-Q. Some came out of the cinema, others came to eat before heading to a nightclub. In the early hours of the morning, it was more the revelers, sometimes unruly, who brought excitement. Until 3 a.m., people lined up to taste the good chicken. In just a few years, St-Hubert had become the last salon where people chatted, from dusk till dawn."

"It is also, for those who want it, the chance to quickly climb all the ranks. Pierre Paul is one of them. In a few months, the workings of the kitchen will hold no more secrets for him. After dishwashing, he will be assigned to bread, then to potatoes. Next, he will move to “the block” to prepare the plates, that is, to arrange the chicken, fries, coleslaw, and sauce. Then comes the job of “chicken breaker,” a delicate task that involves separating the breast from the thigh without wasting the meat. Finally, before becoming a manager, he will be a rotisseur, the highest achievement. By definition, it’s the master position at St-Hubert Bar-B-Q. For a long time, Mr. Léger took care of it personally. He also worked hard, from the very first day, to find the exquisite formula that now ensures St-Hubert’s reputation: meat that is well cooked but tender and juicy under a crispy skin. Now, the rotisseurs he has trained are taking over. Still, the boss keeps an eye on the poultry browning on the spit."

"And as if that were not enough, competition is intensifying. New players in fast food are making an appearance in the market. Nineteen seventy-two marks the strong arrival of the “empire” McDonald’s in Quebec. Six years later, about fifty establishments will be set up there. In 1973, it was ten Mikes Submarines restaurants that made their home in the beautiful province. In the United States, where spending on food away from home exploded between 1960 and 1972, increasing by 103%, the growth of fast food is showing signs of slowing down. Canada and Quebec thus appear as a Klondike for American chains in search of new markets: Pizza Hut, Kentucky Fried Chicken, and Burger King are also preparing to cross the border. Although indirect, this imminent competition threatens to shake the foundations—and the plates!—of St-Hubert Bar-B-Q. It’s fair play, but a counterattack is becoming urgent."

"On April 28, 1967, Expo opens its doors: 300,000 Montrealers and impatient tourists storm the site, armed with their “passport” complete with photo and souvenir pages. Over the next 184 days, more than fifty million visitors will pass through the turnstiles of Terre des Hommes. The crowds are so large that the food services “crack” and quickly become saturated. In insufficient numbers, the restaurants and snack bars are packed at all times. At mealtimes, people wait in line for between half an hour and an hour before being served. People grumble, discontent grows. It is an unforgivable logistical problem for an event of this scale. This is something that threatens to tarnish Expo’s shine. A solution must be found, and quickly, the organizers are aware of this. In desperation, Lucien Saulnier, Jean Drapeau’s right-hand man, contacts several companies that, at first glance, seem capable of quickly resolving the crisis on Notre-Dame Island. St-Hubert Bar-B-Q is one of them. The order is ambitious: serve 20,000 meals per day! René Léger remains unfazed: “I can do it without any problem and… within ten days!” This kind of gamble is right up his alley. When the opportunity to surpass himself arises, the water polo champion surfaces again with his slightly provocative drive to win. He also knows he can rely on a solid team. Had he not built it himself, in that combative spirit? Amazed by such flair, Mr. Saulnier grants the concession to the president of St-Hubert. Certainly, time is of the essence. Summer will soon be here, and the return of warm weather will only increase the flow of visitors. From then on, the situation could quickly become unmanageable. This time, René Léger is in a position of strength. This allows him to secure much more advantageous installation conditions than originally. In exchange, St-Hubert Bar-B-Q commits to building another restaurant—this one with two hundred and fifty seats—on the La Ronde site, behind the Aquarium. It will, moreover, be Jean-Pierre who manages it."

"Early in the morning, the pies and coleslaw arrive by truck, directly from the Pont-Viau kitchens where an army of kitchen hands has been working all night at a hellish pace. Everything is stacked on shelves that line the walls from floor to ceiling. By evening, it’s all gone. And it all has to be done again… André Verreault, 16 years old, spends his summer of 1967, and his nights, making heaps of coleslaw with three colleagues specially assigned to the task. Beside them, an army of pastry chefs produces thousands of apple pies and sugar pies. Amazed, the young man and his colleagues discover another way of doing restaurant business: fast food. Thousands of hot meals are served every day between 11 a.m. and 11 p.m. But it was with General De Gaulle’s visit to Expo, on July 25, 1967, that the true kickoff occurred. On Labor Day, St-Hubert Bar-B-Q will break all sales records: in one day, 910 chicken spits are served. At five chickens per spit, that makes 18,000 meals… In the process, another restaurant is opened on the La Ronde site, which Jean-Pierre will manage. It will meet with the same success. In a single day, an average of 4,000 chocolate mokas, 4,000 vanilla mokas, 5,600 slices of apple pie, and 4,000 whole chickens are served there."

"In addition to being financially profitable, the Expo 67 episode once again established the Légers as pioneers in their field. Until then, no Quebecers had ever taken the mass catering experience so far. The founders of St-Hubert Bar-B-Q and their entire team gained unmatched expertise and increased visibility from it. People from outside Montreal discovered the great taste of St-Hubert, which encouraged the opening of new branches. That same year, St-Hubert set up on Saint-Charles Street in Longueuil, a first on the South Shore. As for the first franchise, it opened in Quebec City. It would be a simple delivery and takeout counter. However, this foray outside the metropolitan area foreshadowed the coming decade, which would be marked by the proliferation of numerous franchises throughout the province."

"One evening, while Hélène is resting at home, the phone rings. It’s the rotisserie. They need her to help out. The young woman heads there at once. It’s worth making the most of the crowd to provide the best service to as many people as possible. Word of mouth, their only advertising, will do the rest. Since René took the car, Hélène hails a taxi. “Drive me to St-Hubert Bar-B-Q!” she tells the driver. He takes her straight to… Mr. Rheault’s former restaurant, almost next door to the rotisserie. Sitting in her taxi, Hélène is shocked."

"Without knowing it, René Léger invents a concept of modern dining, ensuring quality on a large scale. The Expo episode proves it: St-Hubert Bar-B-Q serves “real” full meals at the same speed as hamburgers. To save time, chicken is served on aluminum plates with plastic utensils. So, no dishwashing, since everything is thrown away after use. Since frying is prohibited on site to prevent fires, fries are replaced with mashed potatoes, which also allows them to be prepared in advance. Space is saved on the plate by pouring the sauce into a “well” dug in the middle of the mashed potatoes. To speed up service, each employee performs a single task, unlike the protocol in use at other rotisseries where one person is responsible for two or three operations."

"Another notable change, in 1972, St-Hubert Bar-B-Q proceeded to Frenchify its corporate name: the restaurants would henceforth be called Les Rôtisseries St-Hubert Ltée. It was in the spirit of the times. Quebecers were asserting themselves in every way: politically, economically, and linguistically. The rotisseries, which grew up alongside them, were too."