Nose Over Tongue: Rewrite the Judging Criteria
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Moutai Biography
吴晓波 · 2 highlights
“In the history of contemporary baijiu, Moutai’s most astonishing innovation was changing the evaluation criteria of baijiu quality that had been set for hundreds of years—from tasting to scent assessment. In the “Moutai pilot project” of 1964, Moutai people discovered three typical characteristics of Moutai and then defined “sauce aroma” as the fundamental feature of Moutai. At the third national wine competition in 1979, the Chinese baijiu industry first distinguished major famous wines by aroma, initially proposing the four main aromas of sauce, clean, strong, and rice, which later evolved into twelve aroma categories. Henceforth, the baijiu industry entered an era of “one aroma ruling the world.” As the initiator of the “aroma revolution,” Moutai undoubtedly became the biggest beneficiary of this industry upheaval. It not only participated in establishing new industry evaluation standards but also became an independent school.”
“There is a French proverb: “A good craftsman shows his creative talents within strict rules, while a great craftsman tries to create rules.” It reveals the first rule of business competition: those who control the discourse on rules control the world. Many brands are happy to construct their “mythical origins”: a long history, powerful ancestors, divine appearances, and exclusive secrets. In fact, upon deeper investigation, almost none of them withstand scrutiny.”